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Day 1
Our tour starts today at our hotel in Baku. Sitting on the coast of the Caspian Sea, Azerbaijan's capital is a tapestry of old meets new with the medieval walled city standing proudly next to glittering modern skyscrapers.
For those arriving in time, we'll meet in the hotel reception at 6pm for a welcome meeting with our tour leader. There are no other activities planned today, so you're free to arrive in Baku at any time (note, hotel rooms are not available until after 2pm).
If you'd like an airport transfer, you'll need to arrive into Heydar Aliyev International Airport (GYD), which is a 30-40-minute drive from the hotel.
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Day 2
The history of Baku is long and fascinating. In recent times, it played a major role in the 'oil boom' of the early 20th century, when the country produced more than half the world's supply of oil and the capital grew uncontrollably.
This morning, however, we'll delve into its older heritage. We'll start with a walk through the winding alleys of the Old City, whose mosques, caravanserais and overhanging wooden balconies tell of a quieter era in Baku's history. We'll see the Maiden's Tower, a powerful, eight-storey fortress, and the Shirvanshah's Palace complex, parts of which date back to the 15th century.
In the afternoon, we'll take a bus to the Absheron peninsula to visit its remarkable Zoroastrian Atesgah (fire temple). On our way back to the capital, we'll stop to admire Yanar Dag natural flame, a testimony to why Azerbaijan is known as the land of fire.
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Day 3
We'll leave the Caspian Sea behind this morning and travel the historic trade route from Baku to Sheki, a scenic if winding journey in the shadow of the mighty Caucasus. En route, we'll stop at Samaxi where we'll visit the second-oldest mosque in the trans-Caucasus. Weather permitting, we'll also stop in Lahji, a village situated on the slopes of the Greater Caucasus Mountains and famous for its copper crafting tradition, which earned it a spot on the UNESCO heritage list. While there, we'll visit a local copper workshop and have tea with a local family.
Our total driving today is eight hours (including stops). The long journey time is made up for by the stunning landscapes we'll pass by, from lifeless deserts to dense green forests.
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Day 4
Lost in the folds of the forested slopes of the Caucasus foothills, Sheki has been an important market town for centuries. It sits on the east-west trading route, running across the Caucasus, from the Caspian Sea in the east to the Black Sea in the west. A further trade route across the mountains to Dagestan in the north turned Sheki into a thriving commercial centre - especially during the 18th and 19th centuries, when there were no fewer than five working caravanserais providing safe lodging to merchants and traders. We'll visit the palace complex, including the museum.
In the afternoon, we'll head to the nearby village of Kish, where we can visit the village church, an ancient Albenian temple. Finally, on our way back to Sheki, we'll stop at a local workshop to learn how the traditional 'Kelagai' headscarves are still made by hand.
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Day 5
This morning we'll say goodbye to Azerbaijan and drive towards the border with Georgia.
After clearing customs, we'll drive through the Kakheti region which is famous for its wineries and warm hospitality. Along the way, the landscape will open up to views of the snowy Caucasus mountains and fertile valleys.
For lunch today, we'll travel to a local farm, where we'll enjoy a feast laid on by the farmer in his home. We'll have the unique opportunity to taste traditional Georgian cooking made with produce harvested from the host's garden.
Afterward, we'll move on to the impressive 11th-century Alaverdi cathedral, the tallest monastery in Georgia, surrounded by a beautiful cypress grove and then finally to 16th-century monumental Gremi Fortress.
Our last stop for today is the charming town of Telavi, where we'll stay overnight in a guesthouse. The rooms at our family-run guesthouse are simple, nonetheless it offers quirky and spacious communal areas, and a lovely seating area immersed in a relaxing garden.
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Day 6
Our first stop today will be Telavi's farmers' market, an integral part of local daily life.
Our next stop is Vardisubani village, where we'll learn about the unique wine making technique that Georgians have been using since ancient times. We'll also take part in a masterclass to see how the Qvevri clay vessels are made.
Afterwards, we'll visit a traditional wine cellar in the village of Kondoli. The host has a special love for wine, which is reflected in the quality of the wine he produces. Here, we'll taste the most distinctive, natural wine "Zhghia" which is made from the rarest and highest quality Kakhetian grapes.
Finally, we'll head to the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi. Time permitting, on arrival we'll have time to stroll up to the Narikala Citadel to take in the views over the city or to dip into a relaxing sulphur bath, which the city is famous for. Tbilisi has a lively dining nightlife and social scene, a far cry from the days of the Soviet Era. The capital's beauty lies in the melting pot of architectural styles spanning from Persian to Medieval, brutal constructivist buildings sit next to shiny skyscrapers and western-inspired neighbourhoods.
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Day 7
Leaving the capital this morning, we'll drive to picturesque Mtskheta, the spiritual heart of Georgia. Here, we'll visit the 6th-century hilltop Jvari Monastery where we'll have spectacular views of Mtskheta and the confluence of two rivers below. We'll make our way down into the town to visit Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The 11th-century basilica contains the grave of Sidonia, who was said to have been buried holding Christ's robe.
Afterward, we'll head further west, snaking through the beautiful Imereti villages that dot the landscape. We'll stop in Kaspi to visit a traditional winery and sample some of the Georgian bio-wines that are produced here, differing greatly from the more famous wines found in eastern Georgia. This place is the perfect example of how the younger generation continues the tradition left by their ancestors. We'll learn about the history of wine making and get to taste the natural wines made from unique grape varieties that were on the verge of extinction, just a few years ago.
Arriving in Kutaisi, the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Colchis, we'll check in at our guesthouse for a two-night stay. Kutaisi has been an important town throughout the ages and for many years was the capital of Georgia, when the Arabs occupied Tbilisi. The period between the reigns of King Bagrat and Queen Tamar (roughly 900-1200) was the golden age for Kutaisi and most of the significant buildings date from this time. Now, it's the main city of the Imereti region and the people here are renowned for their sense of humour and a special kind of 'khachapuri' - the delicious cheese bread that's unique to Georgia.
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Day 8
North of Gudauri, the Kazbegi region is a picturesque area, with alpine meadows and towering snow-capped mountains. We'll make an early start this morning as we plan to hike from Stepantsminda town through Gergeti village and up to the iconic 14th-century Church of the Holy Trinity, located at 2710 metres above sea level, on a hilltop overlooking the snowy peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. The circular walk covers seven kilometres and it should take us around three to four hours to complete. If you'd rather not take part in the hike, you can take a local taxi.
The area is a treasure trove of mythology - Prometheus was chained to the majestic Mount Kazbegi (5047m), the highest peak in this region. This part of the Caucasus is also a protected area and is home to a variety of flora and fauna. Georgia has over 100 different mammals, and, although the European bison and Caucasian leopard have become extinct, there are still wolves and bears in the mountains.
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Day 9
This morning we'll set off for our journey to Gori. We'll stop at the Soviet-style town of Gori, where Georgia's most famous son, Stalin, was born. Here, we'll visit the museum and learn much about his life. Interestingly, Stalin initially began training as a priest in the Georgian Seminary before abandoning religion to become a brigand and join the new Bolshevik movement. It's been suggested too that Georgia escaped the worst horrors of Stalin's regime because he was afraid of his conservative Christian mother. En route, we'll pay a visit to the Ananuri Fortress overlooking a reservoir on the Aragvi River.
Today's journey ends in Akhaltsikhe, a charming town which literally translates to 'new fortress' (though ironically there isn't much that's new about this 12th-century town). The skyline is dominated by the imposing Rabati castle, its old streets are home to a large Armenian population, and the forests just outside the town hide the beautiful 10th-century Saphara Monastery. We'll have some free time later this afternoon to explore Akhaltsikhe.
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Day 10
Today we'll head towards one of Georgia's most significant sites, the cave town of Vardzia. On route we'll stop off at Khertvisi Fortress, dramatically situated on a cliff above the confluence of two major rivers. It's one of the oldest fortresses in Georgia, dating back to the 2nd Century BC.
We'll continue our drive through a remote and beautiful landscape of rolling hills, with mountain peaks on the horizon and pine trees occasionally standing like sentries along the sides of the road. Vardzia itself is cut into a towering cliff and was established as a stronghold against the Turkish Sultanate (the Turkish border is only 10 kilometres away) by King Giorgi III in the 12th century. Vardzia was subsequently developed by his daughter, Tamar (later to become Queen Tamar), who created a cave monastery that became a centre of Georgian culture. This network of caves above the Mtkvari (Kura) River once numbered 3000, with up to 19 tiers in some places. Much of it was destroyed after a huge earthquake in 1456 and only 550 caves have been discovered since. There are numerous churches, meeting halls, refectories, and wine cellars, all interconnected by tunnels and stairways. We'll have time to explore and navigate our way around this fascinating place before returning to Akhaltsikhe.
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Day 11
This morning we'll drive to the Borjomi Mineral Water Park, travelling through the majestic forests of the Borjomi Gorge and stopping to sample the sulphurous water, which is believed to have healing properties.
Our journey continues to the UNESCO-listed monastery complex at Gelati, which includes an Academy that employed some of Georgia's greatest thinkers. It was founded in 1106 by King David the Builder in gratitude to God for his victories over the Turks. The King wanted it to serve as a centre of Christendom, so as well as scholars many religious artists studied here. Many of the treasures which were made here have been lost over the centuries, however the buildings and frescos inside are extremely well preserved, and the setting of the monastery on a hillside with views over to the distant Caucasus peaks photo-worthy.
We'll visit the turquoise-roofed Bagrati Cathedral before finishing our day in Kutaisi, which is one of the oldest cities in the world - its name is associated with the myth of the Argonauts.
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Day 12
We'll set off for Batumi this morning, Georgia's attractive summer capital that sits on the shores of the Black Sea.
A renovation and regeneration project carried out at the turn of the century has transformed the city's skyline, now a mix of modern skyscrapers which contrast the charming 19th-century buildings, all set against a backdrop of the rolling mountains that surround Batumi.
We'll start our exploration in the Old Town, walking through European Square and Piazza Square, home to classic architecture that features mosaics, stained glass windows, clock towers and churches. After lunch, we'll move on to the more modern seafront, where a stroll along Batumi Boulevard lets you take in the modern skyscrapers, dancing water fountains and the moving metal sculpture of Ali and Nino.
After some free time at the end of the city tour, we'll return to Kutaisi in the late afternoon (drive of approximately three hours).
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Day 13
Today, we'll drive back to Tbilisi and, in the afternoon, take a city tour on foot. Tbilisi is both an ancient and cosmopolitan city; you can find a synagogue, a mosque, a Georgian basilica, an Armenian church, and a Zoroastrian Fire-Worshipper's temple all within a 15-minute walk of one another.
Our orientation tour takes us first to the important Church of Metecki and through the picturesque Old Town, the Sioni Cathedral and then on to the fascinating State Museum. Afterwards, we'll enjoy panoramic views of the whole town at the 4th-century Narikala fortress before we walk back to the city centre via the historical domed sulphur bath area.
This afternoon, there's plenty of time free to explore the city at your own pace. You might like to take a backstage tour of the Rustaveli Theatre or wander through the narrow streets of the Old Town, perhaps finding a quirky café to pass the time in. A walk over the architecturally striking contemporary Peace Bridge is also a must.
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Day 14
Today we'll head to the Georgia/Armenia border at Sadakhlo. Here we'll say goodbye to our Georgian tour leader and meet our Armenian tour leader. After clearing customs, our first stop is the dramatically located Monastery of Haghpat, listed by UNESCO thanks to its outstanding ecclesiastical architecture.
Moving on, the scenery changes again as we find ourselves amongst hills and valleys covered in pine trees. In the picturesque town of Dilijan, we'll walk through a museum street, which has preserved houses dating back to the 18th century, with typical fretwork wooden balconies as well as local handicraft studios.
After our stop, we'll continue our drive. The scenery changes again and becomes more dramatic as we pass towering escarpments and make our way into the copper mining area of Armenia. The road then starts a descent and, once again we'll pass through villages, eventually catching our first glimpse of the expansive waters of the beautiful Lake Sevan, set against mountain peaks.
Located 1900 metres above sea level, Lake Sevan is famous for its ever-changing hues, and, depending on the weather, the colour of the water can range from a deep, steely blue to a stunning turquoise. This huge body of water is the largest lake in the Caucasus region, covering an area of 940 square kilometres, and one of the largest fresh water high altitude lakes in the world. We'll have the chance to walk up to Sevanavank Monastery, where we can get a different perspective of the lake.
Our hotel for tonight sits on the banks of the lake itself. Its quintessential austere Soviet look is compensated by the mesmerizing view of the lake we will be rewarded with in the morning.
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Day 15
We'll depart Lake Sevan after breakfast to visit a cross stone cemetery in Noratus village. This unique cemetery holds a collection of nearly 1000 khatchkars (intricately carved vertical tombstones).
Afterward, we'll climb higher making our way over the Selim Pass (2410m) giving us wonderful views of the mountains and Alpine meadows, which are covered in wildflowers in the spring. As the Selim Pass was once part of the Silk Road, we can find the remains of a caravanserai here, where travellers would stop for food and shelter on their journey. As we approach the mountains, the plains give way to undulating hills. We'll pass through the wine-making village of Areni, where we'll stop at a local winery to taste the best wine in Armenia. Continuing on our way, the scenery becomes more mountainous, and we'll head into a spectacular gorge where we'll make a stop at the picturesque Noravank Monastery, which sits in a picturesque position overlooking the gorge below.
After lunch, we'll travel north through the vast plains of Ararat to visit the Khor Virap Monastery. Mount Ararat is a constant companion on the horizon and provides a spectacular backdrop to the monastery.
Finally, we'll reach the capital and check-in at our hotel, which will be our base for the rest of the tour. In Yerevan, tree-lined streets encase both grand Soviet-era architecture and traditional Armenian coloured stone buildings, all set against the dramatic backdrop of the fabled Mount Ararat.
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Day 16
This morning, we'll travel out of the city to visit the 7th-century ruins of the UNESCO-listed Zvartnots. Its remaining columns are set against a magnificent backdrop of the snowy peaks of Mount Ararat. We'll continue on to the 'Holy City' of Echmiadzin, Armenia's former capital, where we'll visit the UNESCO-listed Echmiadzin Cathedral in time to coincide with part of the Sunday service.
Returning to Yerevan, and before continuing our city tour, we'll visit the Tsitsernakaberd Armenian Genocide Memorial Complex and its museum, an important and unmissable stop. We'll then make our way to the Cascade complex - a Soviet-period structure that resembles a giant stairway and houses a modern art museum. We'll continue on to see the expansive Republic Square before spending time at the open-air Vernissage craft market.
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Day 17
Today, we'll once again leave the city behind us as we drive east through a landscape of alpine meadows to the Hellenistic temple at Garni. This pagan monument, dedicated to the worship of the sun, was built in AD77 and is an extraordinary site to be found in Armenia, so far from the rest of the Hellenistic world. From the Garni River gorge, we'll take an easy walk up the temple. Along the way, we'll see the striking basalt rock formations that make up the towering walls of the gorge.
We'll then continue to the nearby UNESCO-listed Geghard Monastery, found in a beautiful location surrounded by mountains. Partly made up of caves and partly built from local stone, this tranquil monastery dates from the 4th century and houses two main churches decorated with impressive well-preserved carvings and a fountain of spring water alleged to have rejuvenating properties.
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Day 18
Today we'll head northwest to visit the Amberd Fortress, a 10th-century fortress on the slopes of Mount Aragats. En route, we'll stop to visit Alphabet Park, a tribute to the complexity and uniqueness of the Armenian language. Finally, we'll arrive at the fortress, which sits 4090 metres above sea level. Its construction began in the 7th century and continued into the 11th. It's surrounded by cliffs on three sides, which protected it for a long time until Tamerlane managed to sack it in the 14th century.
Afterward, we'll head towards Oshakan village, where a local family invites us into their home to see how they bake traditional Armenian flatbread known as 'Lovash'. We'll then enjoy a lunch prepared with this freshly baked bread, before returning to the city.
Back in Yerevan, we'll have time to visit the remarkable Matenadaran Library, which houses over 17,000 rare manuscripts.
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Day 19
There are no other activities planned today, so you're free to leave Yerevan at any time. If your flight is departing later in the day luggage storage facilities are available at our hotel. If you'd like an airport transfer, you'll need to depart from Yerevan International Airport (EVN), which is a 30-minute drive from the hotel.
If you'd like to explore the Armenian capital further, you can add extra nights onto your trip. Please contact us to book additional accommodation. You might like to pay a visit to the History Museum of Armenia (which has a 5500-year-old leather shoe in its collection), attend a performance at the Armenian National Opera and Ballet Theatre, or taste a freshly baked 'gata' (a traditional Armenian pastry) while soaking up the relaxed atmosphere of this delightful city.
